Everybody needs a culinary hero. Mine is Masaharu Morimoto.

It's a decidedly unoriginal choice, but it's hard being original all the time.

For those lovers of that legendarily campy and sexual innuendo-laden, Japanese cooking competition show, Iron Chef, Morimoto or "Iron Chef Japanese" is god. Back then, he was the Iron Chef Japanese. In the tradition of Iron Chef Michiba, his Iron Chef Japanese predecessor, Morimoto challenged the Japanese their own notions of Japanese cuisine. Back then you couldn’t not root for the guy. He had that intense Japanese look that said, "I’m going cook you the best thing you ever ate!" And why not? Even back then, it was clear. This guy was the real deal. At the time of the show's filming, Morimoto's day job was as the Executive Chef of Nobu (yes, that Nobu) in New York City. He shuttled back and forth between his day job in New York City and filming Iron Chef in Tokyo.

That he left Nobu in 1999 was no surprise. Clearly, this was a man who could easily have his own name on a restaurant. In 2001, he partnered with restaurateur Steven Starr to open Morimoto on Chestnut Street in Philadelphia. Despite many a grandiose plan to visit friends in Philadelphia and save up enough to get the Omakase ($120), the chef’s tasting menu a.k.a. “whatever the chef feels like making you,” I never made it there. All excuses were set aside when Morimoto opened – what else – “Morimoto” on the fringes of the Meat Packing District in New York City. At long last, I could come (not very) close to
realizing my dreams of being a judge on Iron Chef. A very expensive dream, but a dream that could be made a reality rather easily.

Alright, I have say I was a little worried. Maybe, I had let this run a little too far in my mind. I can be a fatalist when it comes to these things. As with many things in life that have not lived up to my expectations, a small part of me girded against the inevitable let down. There’s no way this restaurant could live up to all my Iron Chef hopes and expectations. Could it?

In a word: Yes.

To save room (and attention span) to talk about food related matters, I will say these short words on the space:

(1) The décor is exactly what you would expect from a culinary shrine to Japanese-American Cuisine 2.0.
(2) Trust me. Go play with the bathroom stalls. The white porcelain American Standard throne that you have at home (like me) might as well be an outhouse after you experience the Morimoto throne.

Now the exciting part – the food. I’m glad to report, the appetizers did not disappoint. Some quick hits.

Pork Kakuni – A dish hailing from Okinawa, Pork Kakuni truly defines what it means to be in hog heaven. The hog is in heaven and so are you after you taste this. Who knew that pork belly having been braised for 10 hours and then placed on a bed of congee could taste this good? As expected, after 10 hours of hanging out in the oven simmering in its juices, the belly is so tender you can eat it with your chopsticks. Braised in a sweet, soy sauce base, the pork provided a great contrast with the savory congee beneath.

Oyster Foie Gras – This holy trinity of seafood is how I envision a seafood turducken. At the base, a broiled oyster sits with sea urchin roe. All of this is topped off with a slice of seared foie gras. I don’t care what they say. Foie gras is one of the best foods in the world. It’s indescribably buttery and savory and good. What’s the point of being of having an opposable thumb and being on top of the food chain, if I can’t fatten up a duck and eats its massive liver? I’ve seen the force feeding process in action, it’s really not bad. Foie activists listen up: Go eat some and stop whining.

Toro Tartare – What’s not to like about fresh ground tuna and a dashi broth dip? I will say this. I have no idea how I’m going to go back to eating that ubiquitous green-dyed powered wasabi that you get at every sushi joint. Fresh grated wasabi is where it’s at. There is no substitute for the floral undertones and massive kick of fresh wasabi.

My main dish was a little less esoteric, but it was exactly what I wanted. If you like Chirashi, get the Morimoto Chirashi. It’s
luxurious to say the least. To think of all fish and potential fish (roe) that died on the altar of my dinner – well, let’s just say, I’m glad I have that aforementioned opposable thumb. Better to use my chopsticks with. Morimoto’s chirashi features 10-12 different types of fish and vegetables – salmon, tuna, yellowtail, mackerel, marinated lotus root, nori, salmon roe, squid, etc. – sitting on a mound of sushi rice. It’s not a complicated dish, but do it right and the combination of really fresh fish and sticky vinegared sushi rice becomes something altogether.

No dessert for this guy, but I did have a taste of somebody's Earl Grey creme brulee. Make great sense from a Chinese perspective. Every Chinese kid loves sweet milk tea. Imagine that in a dessert, only ten times more tea like, ten times sweeter and, of course, ten times creamier. Should have planned a bit better; I could have had a full dessert.

So if find yourself wondering why you're working so hard, go to Morimoto. A great reminder of what money is for - Food, not fighting wars.

Verdict: Crazy expensive. Crazy good.

The Space: http://architourist.pbwiki.com/Morimoto+NYC

The Morimoto Menu: http://nymag.com/listings/restaurant/morimoto/menus/dinner.html

The Review: http://nymag.com/restaurants/reviews/16435/
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Contributed by TheVillageIdiot

Labels: restaurants, ShoutsOfAdoration